4 Days in Madrid, Spain — The Active Voyager

Welcome to Madrid

What drew us to visit Madrid was the promise of beautiful architecture, friendly people, and delicious food. After lots of research (via TripAdvisor’s Top Things to Do in Madrid and my cousin who spent a year living in Madrid), we landed on a four-day itinerary. We found Madrid to be a great city and relatively affordable to get to from the East Coast of the US. It’s a beautiful place to walk around and must-do day trips to Toledo and Segovia are easily accessible.

Where to Stay

At my cousin’s recommendation we stayed near Puerta del Sol, a public square in central Madrid. We found the location to be fantastic and highly recommend it. From Puerta del Sol it is easy to walk to most of the top places to visit in Madrid, as well as the Sol metro stop which connects you to the train station for day trips to Segovia and Toledo. We stayed here and would stay here again: Puerta del Sol - Vll - Madrid Center Airbnb ($112/night)

Most flights from the US arrive early morning. While it can be tough to find the energy for a full day of sightseeing, you know it’s worth it. During the first day, you’ll explore the areas surrounding Puerta del Sol to the north and east, including the Prado Museum and Retiro Park.

10:00 - Arrive in Madrid Airport. Change your clothes and splash some water on your face at the airport since you’re about to power through a day of sightseeing.

11:00 - Take the bus from the airport to Puerta del Sol (A). Look for buses to “Atocha” and then walk to Puerta del Sol (directions).

11:30 - Eat a late breakfast in a cafe in Puerta del Sol. You’re probably starving so grab a quick bite but keep in mind that this is far too early for the Spanish to be eating lunch (See Pre-Travel Checklist below), so restaurants will likely be empty except for those sipping a cappuccino.*Word of warning: lured by the cafes on the walk from Atocha to Puerta del Sol, I stopped for a coffee and ham croissant and had my bag stolen while sitting in the cafe. Keep your bag between your legs or a leg through a strap at ALL times. I live in NYC and am used to watching out for pickpockets, and still got burned in Madrid.

12:00 - Drop your bags off. Ideally you have already asked your Airbnb host if you can stop by early and drop your bags (or if you are staying at a hotel, they should be able to keep the bags for you.) (See Pre-Travel Checklist below)

12:30 - Walk to the Museo Nacional Del Prado (B) (15 min from Puerta del Sol). I’m not much of a museum person, and we never stay at museums for more than an hour or two, but this is one of those ones you’ve gotta do (and it’s worth it). Check out some famous paintings by Velazquez, Goya, and El Greco (open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm and Sun 10am-7pm, 15 €; it is free after 6pm although the line is loooong - expect to wait 30+ mins).

2:00 - Stretch your legs and get some fresh air. Meander through the Real Jardin Botanica (C) (open 10am-9pm daily, 6 €). Continue on to Retiro Park (D) to see fountains and statues, and make your way towards the Palacio de Cristal (E).

3:30 - If you’re staying at an Airbnb, this is a good time to do some grocery shopping for essentials (coffee, breakfast, snacks) and fixings to cook two dinners at home (the ultimate cost saver). Grab a snack if you need something to hold you over. Coviran or Mantequeria Bermejo near Puerta del Sol are good options.

4:30 - Check in to your Airbnb or hotel. Drop your groceries off, take a shower, and inject some caffeine because you’re getting back out there.

5:30 - Avoid the call of your bed telling you to take a nap and head north from Puerta del Sol. You’ll encounter Gran Villa (F), a main shopping thoroughfare, where you can enjoy the hustle and bustle of Madrid shoppers. You can pick up anything you’ve inadvertently left at home (socks) or had stolen by TSA (toothpaste).

6:00 - Walk up to the Plaza de Cibeles (G) and take in the neoclassical architecture of what is now City Hall. We did not go inside but enjoyed the architecture from the outside. PS I have no idea what neoclassical architecture means but if you’re looking for an example, apparently this is it. It’s ~20 min walk up Gran Villa to Plaza de Cibeles.

6:30 - Get a drink at the Circulo de Bellas Artes (H), a cultural center with an amazing rooftop bar called Azotea del Círculo (open Mon-Fri 9am-2am and Sat-Sun 11am-2pm, 4 € to get to the roof.) The line will go down the block, but don’t bail because it moves fast. Have a drink or two and watch the sunset over the city rooftops.

8:00 - Dinner. At this point, you are most likely starving and exhausted. Most restaurants aren’t even open yet, and the dinner rush doesn’t arrive until 10pm. That’s why you’re thankful you did some grocery shopping earlier to cook dinner at the Airbnb.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Toledo is an ancient city set on a hill. You’ll feel transported back to medieval times as you pass Arab, Jewish and Christian monuments inside the walled old city. Meander down narrow alleys, enjoy the architecture, and walk along the perimeter of the city to take in the views.

8:00 - Stretch your legs with a run around Mardid’s central park, Casa De Campo. You’ll pass by Campo del Moro and Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena on the way. (It’s 3k from Puerta del Sol to Casa de Campo). PS This is optional and I wouldn’t blame you if you wanted to sleep in instead.

10:20 - Take the Renfe Avant train from Atocha Station in Madrid to Toledo (40 min, $35 round-trip). To get to the Atocha Station, you can walk from Puerta del Sol or take the metro to the Palos de la Frontera stop. If you have an iPhone, you can get the train tickets in your Apple Wallet.

11:00 - Arrive at the Toledo Train Station (A). Follow the crowd to walk over the Alcantara Bridge (Puente de Alcantara) (B), the entrance to the city (~10 min walk).

11:30 - Explore Casco Historico de Toledo, the old town neighborhood on the east side of the city. You’ll see the Alcazar del Toledo (C), a former Roman Palace built in the 3rd century. Skip the tour unless you’re fascinated by military artifacts (though there is a nice view from the top) and just enjoy the architecture from the outside (open 11am-5pm every day except closed Wed, 5 €). Stop for a coffee at one of the many cafes and watch the passersby.

12:30 - Wander towards the Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada (D). Go inside and do the audio tour (open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm and Sun 2pm-6pm, 12,50 €).

1:30 - Stop for Lunch. We ate at La Abadia (E), a restaurant with a neat cave interior and unusual Spanish menu items like pickled partridge. Though we thought it was fine, the ambiance is better than the food and some of the more recent reviews have been pretty harsh. Another option we considered was the nearby Restaurante Alfileritos 24 (E) which has a 20 € three-course lunch menu.

3:00 - Walk around the Jewish Quarter in the western part of the city. The El Greco Museum (F) (the painter’s former home) is a fun visit—a small (read: manageable) museum with a nice outdoor area to walk around (open Tues-Sat 9:30am-7:30pm, Sun 10-3, closed Mon, 3 €).

4:00 - Visit the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes (G) (open daily 10am-6:30pm, 3 €). The monastery was my favorite place in Toledo. It has amazing architecture and a beautiful central courtyard, and is a peaceful oasis in the bustling city with cramped streets. If you are waffling, spring for those three euros and do it.

5:00 - Head west to the San Martin Bridge (Puente San Martin) (H). After crossing the bridge and turning left, take the uphill walk (~35 min) to Mirador del Valle (I). Along the way, you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of the city of Toledo. We found this to be secluded and romantic, although some recent online reviews suggest it’s increasing in popularity.

6:00 - Head back to the train station. You can head back the way you came and then walk along the perimeter of the city (~90 min walk) or keep walking down the other side of the hill from Mirador del Valle (~35 min walk). On the way to the train station you’ll pass some cafes and can stop for a glass of wine (note they primarily cater to tourists.)

7:30 - Take the 40-minute train from Toledo Station back to the Atocha Station in Madrid.

8:30 - Cook dinner at the Airbnb or visit one of the restaurants near Puerta del Sol.

During the second day in the city, you’ll see more sites south and east of Puerta del Sol including the Royal Palace and Mercado San Miguel. The Sunday morning El Rastro Market is the highlight of the morning.

10:00 - Go for a run in Madrid Río Park (A). There is a nice running path along the river (~2k to get there, and then 6k along the park). You’ll see lots of runners, joggers, and walkers along the path.

12:00 - After cleaning up and eating breakfast at the Airbnb, walk to the El Rastro open air market (B) (open 9am-3pm *Sunday only*). There are tons of stalls with clothes, crafts, souvenirs, etc. Stop for a cappuccino in the area.

1:30 - Head to the Mercado San Miguel (C) for lunch (open daily 10am-12am). Get several small bites from different places in the market and stand at the communal tables while you eat and pick out the next things you want to try.

3:00 - Tour the Royal Palace of Madrid (D) (open daily 10am-8pm, 12 €). This 2,000 room palace is full of art and antiques. It is the official residence of the Spanish royal family. (Note: check opening hours ahead of time. We wanted to do this but it was closed for an official state visit.)

5:00 - At this point, you are likely ready for some downtime. Head back towards Puerta del Sol and stop for a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe, or head to the Airbnb to relax for an hour or two before dinner. If you have too much energy for that, visit the Museo Nacional Centre de Arte Reina Sofia, an art museum with paintings by Dali, Picasso, Miro, and others (open daily 10am-9pm except closed Tues, 14,50 €).

9:30 - Head back out to eat dinner around Plaza Mayor (E), a major public space in the heart of Madrid. Do research before you pick a place as many restaurants in the area are overpriced and under-deliver on quality. Los Galayos and Meson del Champiñon are two good options.

11:00 - After dinner, have a chocolate con churros at Chocolateria San Gines (F) (open 24/7). You may be tired, but you must make this stop!

Segovia’s iconic ancient Roman aqueduct is worth making this day trip alone, but the city is also full of Romanesque churches and cathedrals that complete the trip. Like Toledo, you’ll feel like you’ve gone back in time to the medieval era as you explore the windy streets of the city.

10:15 - Take the Renfe Avant train from Chamartin Station in Madrid to Segovia (2 hours, $20 round-trip).

12:15 - Arrive and walk from the Segovia Train Station to the Aqueduct (20 min) (directions).

12:45 - Explore the Aqueduct, one of the best-preserved elevated Roman aqueducts and the symbol of Segovia. Walk the length of the Aqueduct to the left first, and then walk up the stairs on the right end to see a view of the city.

1:45 - Walk past the Plaza de Medina del Campo on the way to Plaza Mayor. Stop for lunch around Plaza Mayor (list of restaurants).

3:00 - After lunch, visit the Catedral de Segovia (open daily 9am-9:30pm, 3 €). If you need a pick me up, stop at one of the cafes in Plaza Mayor overlooking the Catedral for a cappuccino.

3:45 - Wind your way along the north side of the city to the Mirador de la Pradera de San Marcos to get a wonderful view of the Alcazar (~15 min walk).

4:30 - Walk back up to the Alcazar Segovia (open daily 10am-8pm, 16 € for the whole package). The museum is an entertaining collection of military artifacts (armor, pennants, etc.) The panoramic views from the Tower of Juan II are spectacular.

6:30 - Walk back to the Segovia Train Station for the train to Chamartin Station in Madrid.

7:15 - Take the Renfe Avant train from Segovia to Chamartin Station in Madrid.

10:00 - Splurge on dinner at either El Jamón y el Churrasco or Restaurante Rubaiyat near Chamartin Train Station. Ask the restaurant to assist with finding a taxi back to the Airbnb.

Have More or Less than 4 Days?

Four days in Madrid felt like the perfect amount, allowing time for two great day trips to Toledo and Segovia, exploration of the city, as well as some downtime in between. From Madrid, we traveled on to three other destinations in Spain. If you are just passing through Madrid and have less than four days, I recommend starting with the Day 1 itinerary, and adding Day 2 and then 3 as they are outlined. The itinerary ended up being in order of our most to least favorite days—although we’d do it all again if we had the chance.

Our complete Spain itinerary included four days in Madrid, three days in San Sebastian, one day in Bilbao, and then finally three days in Barcelona. Check out those itineraries for other Spain recommendations.

Costs for Two People

Round-trip flights (NYC to Madrid) - $1,000
Lodging - $450 ($112/night)
Ground Transportation & Trains - $100
Food - $400 ($100/day)
Activities - $120 ($30/day)
International Phone - $20 ($5/day)
Shopping - $110
Total Costs - $2,200 (updated 2019)

Before You Leave

Make sure your passport won’t expire within 6 months of your departure date.
Double check open hours as they can change (e.g., in the off season and during national holidays.)
Book trains for day trips to Toledo and Segovia.
Explore options for dropping bags early on your arrival date. Some Airbnb hosts will let you drop the bags while they clean, and hotels will usually let you store luggage.
Download offline Google Maps for Madrid, Toledo, and Segovia.

Tips

Spaniards eat late compared to American standards. Lunch is around 2pm and dinner around 9:30-10pm. Stopping around 11am for a cappuccino and pastry helped tide us over.
In most restaurants, there wasn’t even an option for meal tipping on the credit card machine. Leaving a couple of euros in cash is nice.
Nearly everyone we interacted with spoke English. When in doubt, try to find someone who looks young to ask questions.